The night before, I’d stayed at a seaside hotel in Kaiki.

I rested my body slowly by the ocean. It was the evening after we’d left Izumo and traveled as far as the Yonago area. The tiredness from that long day seemed to melt away with the sound of the waves.

And so the journey reached its fourth morning.

To the Morning Market of Sakaiminato

After leaving the hotel, my first stop was Sakaiminato.

I went to see the morning fish market. Just as I arrived, fishing boats were returning from the sea and unloading their catch. The fishing vessels were enormous. Fish were being brought into the market in endless waves, one batch after another. The noise and energy of it all got my heart racing.

An auction was underway.

People in red caps moved about busily. Crab specialty shops lined the market, and there were fishcake vendors too. Kites circled overhead in the sky. And yet, the entire harbor was kept remarkably clean and hygienic. A beautiful port. I could have watched it all day without getting bored.

A large cruise ship was also docked at the harbor. I was amazed by its size—I didn’t realize such impressive passenger ships came to a port like this.

Rock Oysters and Snow Crab

In one corner of the market, there was a shop where you could eat.

I took a break here. What we had was rock oyster—a premium brand one at that. Along with snow crab, white squid, and a non-alcoholic beer since I don’t drink alcohol. But it was more than enough to satisfy.

The rock oyster was rich and buttery—truly the milk of the sea. The snow crab was sweet, its flesh melting away gently. The white squid had a crisp, pleasant texture and a refined sweetness. All of it was fresh from this morning’s catch. Could there be any greater luxury than this?

While eating, I met a traveler who had come from Hong Kong.

We didn’t share much of a common language, but standing before delicious food, somehow our hearts still connected. We laughed together, exchanging remarks like, “Japan is still expensive, isn’t it?” These small encounters while traveling become wonderful memories.

Enjoying Japan’s seafood bounty together with someone who’d come from overseas—that’s what the morning market in Sakaiminato gave me. A moment of warmth.

Back to Hamada

With our bellies full, we got back in the car.

From here, heading west all the way. We drove the rental car to Hamada in Shimane, where I would return it. I’d driven quite far in that new Aqua. The ride was smooth, and it had been a good companion on this journey.

Once back in Hamada, I had a bit of time. I was able to stop by briefly at my family’s place in Shimane. I was relieved to see their cheerful faces.

The Mechanical Clock and Iwami Kagura at Hamada Station

In the evening, I headed to the north plaza at Hamada Station.

There’s a mechanical clock there. At exactly 5 p.m., figures began to move and a performance started in the center of the plaza.

What played was music from Iwami Kagura—the sacred dance performance.

To the rhythm of drums and flutes, the figures danced. That magnificent kagura I’d seen at an inn in Izumo was recreated here too, as an automaton at the station plaza. You could really sense how much the people of Iwami cherish their kagura tradition. The pride of the region lives in places like this.

5:05 p.m. The mechanical clock had just finished its performance. Though it was brief, I was glad to see something beautiful at the very end.

The End of the Journey Draws Near

After that, I headed to my family’s home in Hamada.

That evening, we went to a yakiniku restaurant.

Actually, I’d tried to come here last year, but unfortunately it had been closed that day. It had bothered me ever since. But this year, I finally made it inside.

The marbled beef gleamed beautifully on the plate. When we set it on the grill, it sizzled with a satisfying sound, and savory smoke rose up. Yakiniku after a year’s wait tasted exceptional. It was a lively, wonderful evening.

The morning had been spent savoring the treasures of the sea in Sakaiminato, the afternoon driving westward, and the evening admiring the mechanical clock in Hamada. A full, packed fourth day. The journey was drawing to its close.

Tomorrow would be the day I headed home.

I lingered over that last night, taking it all in.

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In an unfamiliar place, sharing a meal with a stranger and laughing together—perhaps that’s the real essence of what travel offers.

※ This article is based on personal experience and publicly available information. It is not intended to diagnose, treat, or prevent any disease. If you have health concerns, please consult a doctor or registered dietitian. See our Disclaimer.